48 hours in far north Queensland: what to do and where to go
Despite the rugged charm of Cairns, the true appeal of far north Queensland lies in its wild and verdant countryside. This region holds a treasure trove of delights for anyone passionate about nature and the beauty of our world. Here, you can find rare species of wildlife and unusual tropical fruits flourishing amidst a lush landscape threaded with waterfalls. The locale also offers a feast of local produce to savour.
Apart from its physical allure, what truly captures the heart are the vibrant hues and ambient sounds that define this region. The intensity of emerald and turquoise tints surpasses any effort to capture them on canvas, even by renowned artist Brett Whiteley. The symphony of the forest after sundown infuses a sense of awe that makes you realise the vastness of nature. Nestled away from bustling city life, this portion of Queensland is nothing less than magical.
Did you know that Queensland's fauna includes the prehistoric Cassowary- a bird that's native to the tropical forests of northeastern Queensland? Or that among the unique fruits in this region, you can find the exceptional 'Miracle fruit' that alters your taste sense temporarily, making sour foods taste sweet? These unique experiences contribute to making this part of the world an explorer's dream.
Friday
1pm: Arriving in Cairns feels like stepping out in an oven: it is 33 degrees under the sun, and already I have the beginning of a heat rash. After signing in for our rental car, we head straight towards the Atherton ranges, a region two hours south of Cairns known for its local gourmet produces, which includes Daintree tea, coffee, forest honey, organic vanilla and dairy products. Lunch awaits at Mungalli Creek, a family-owned farm specialising in biodynamic yoghurts and cheeses. Planted at the top of the valley, you won’t have phone reception – but after trying their cheddar, this will be the least of your concerns.
The ploughman’s lunch would satiate even Goliath: with an assortment of soft cheeses, Mugalli’s own organic eggs, homemade mayonnaise, feta with marinated tomatoes, toasted bread and dips, the plate could easily be shared between two or three. The passionfruit yoghurt is one of the best I’ve ever tasted, and their range of homemade cheesecakes are as enticing as they are delicious (so much so that I had two slices; if you hesitate, go for the orange and chocolate one).
3pm: We head south towards waterfall region. We stop by Millaa Millaa, where Dutch tourists are brave enough to dip in the cold water, but there are a handful of waterholes to choose from (make sure you follow the waterfalls drive) to choose your favourite spots.
5pm: Our first night is spent at the Rose Gums Wildlife Reserve, a collection of private timber treehouses enveloped by pristine and protected forest wilderness. Our own private, two bedroom tree nest sits above the forest, and we make good use of the giant deck to watch dusk setting above the treeline (stargazing after dinner was spectacular). The beautiful property is surrounded by nine kilometers of trails which guests can explore at will. We decide to walk down the rose gums walk, which leads to (you guessed it) a giant rose gum tree. This was, by far, the mostmemorable moment of our north Queensland trip: we headed out just as the sun was setting, at which time the forest exploded with the sound of cicadas – so loud and so all-encompassing that I felt like I was surrounded by a hundred fire alarms going off at once. Spooky and magical.
In the morning, you can walk to the playtpus creek, join the owner as she feeds the lorikeets and, if you’re lucky, spot a the smallest kangaroo in the world, the musky rat-kangaroo.
Your Saturday Adventure
10am: Start your day with a dash of adventure, savoring whiskey and rum tastings in the heart of the tropics at the Mt Uncle Distillery. Don't fret over the early-hour, each spirit has been meticulously crafted on-site, coaxing you into a brave exploration of their diverse range. The stars of the tasting? Their gin, concocted from a medley of 14 unique Australian native botanics, and their divine iridium gold rum. It exudes an elegant smoothness akin to butter and is best savored neat or over ice.
11am: Post your spirit indulgence, brace yourself for a sublime coffee experience. Skybury Coffee is known to be one of Australia's finest coffee producers. Having nurtured the art of coffee-making for over three decades under a family-held legacy, this verdant plantation is also renowned for its banana and papaya crops. Savour a well-deserved lunch on their deck, offering panoramic views of the vast plantation. Before leaving, pick up a bottle of their homemade coffee liqueur as a distinctive reminder of your visit.
Witnessing Mossman Gorge firsthand, Cameron—part of the Kuku Yalanji people—wore body markings crafted from clay. Eyes were drawn to the sight of natural honey, discovered nestled in the crook of a tree. Image courtesy of Jessica Reed for Guardian.
3pm: As the afternoon sun paints the sky, we make our way to the newly inaugurated Mossman Gorge visitor centre—an eco-tourism project aimed at celebrating Indigenous art and culture. Apart from an art gallery showcasing the work of male Aboriginal local artists—an unusual display in the local art scene—the centre also houses a coffee shop and a training facility. Serving as a launch pad for numerous forest tours led by Indigenous guides, the centre is nothing short of dynamic.
Our insightful local guide and artist, Cameron, navigates us through the forest's winding tracks, sharing ancestral knowledge handed down by his Kuku Yalanji forefathers. We find ourselves passing by traditional bark shelters, resting by the shimmering stream, its surface dotted with towering boulders. With each step, Cameron highlights sites of cultural relevance, weaving stories of his land that urge us to listen. Immersed fully in nature, we are captivated by the symphony of the forest:
Inserting new facts: Mossman Gorge is part of Daintree National Park in Queensland, home to the world's oldest rainforest. It is known for its stunningly clear waters, idyllic landscapes, and rich biodiversity, making it a must-visit destination for nature lovers.
6pm: A short drive leads us to Silk Oak Lodge, our sanctuary for the night. Nestled among lush rainforests and perched above the Mossman Gorge river, the lodge offers a variety of luxury treehouses. Stepping in, we find ourselves surrounded by enticing amenities—a tempting swimming pool, a restaurant serving delectable dishes (the bartender's generous pour of port left us delighted, not disgruntled), and an enchanting open balcony bar with views of the undulating stream.
Picture yourself in the exquisite surroundings of Silk Oak Lodge's pool, the deck of a treehouse, or being treated to breakfast featuring a smorgasbord of tropical fruit harvested at the peak of ripeness. All these are captured brilliantly by the lens of Jessica Reed for The Guardian.
A standout feature of the lodge is the serene billabong, situated conveniently just 30 comfortable strides away from our lodgings. It seemed to be an untouched gem, with none of the other visitors venturing near it – possibly due to the sight of a snake enjoying a leisurely swim. However, the sheer joy of immersing oneself in a secluded body of water, bordered by verdant foliage and buzzing dragonflies, is a unique pleasure that only a few dare to experience. It's so peaceful and quiet that it wouldn’t be uncommon for someone to consider a private skinny-dip (though I'm not admitting to anything here).
In addition to this, imagine spending a few hours swinging on a hammock on the deck, losing yourself in the pages of a good book — a perfect recipe for pure satisfaction. These experiences, simple yet profound, evoke a sense of bliss that is hard to articulate yet impossible to forget.
Sunday
10am: Use your morning to try jungle surfing in the Daintree forest, a Unesco world heritage site. Hooked (securely) with a harness, you hop from tree platform to tree platform. As you zip through giant ancient trees, you can spot incredible vistas of the nearby barrier reef between jumps. It’s a unique way to enjoy the forest, but those afraid of heights should abstain (the poor older British lady who was with us was absolutely terrified the whole way through, but she bravely ziplined time and time again). I wouldn’t have dared film her distress, but you can laugh at me instead:
On your way back towards Port Douglas, make sure to stop at Daintree Mountain View Retreat & Vanilla Beans - honk twice in front of the property, and the owner, dog at his heel, will come out to sell you his own organic vanilla beans, harvested by hand a few meters away. The beans’ smell is so pungent it almost is like amber: it has nothing to do with supermarket stuff (at $10 a bean, it’s not cheap but worth it nonetheless. The shell, instead of being discarded, can be ground into powder and used in creams, cakes or sugar).
Because a visit to North Queensland is not complete without a visit to the reef, hop on a half- or full-day cruise with Aquarius, based in Port Douglas. From there, a catamaran will take you to the Low Isles to snorkel in the reef (spotted: clown fishes, small sharks, an octopus) and a brief tour of the island. The hour’s journey, on a calm sea, is especially great if you hurry and secure yourself a spot on the catamaran’s nets at the front of the vessel.
How to get there
Daily flights to Cairns from Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney and more.
Where to stay
Accommodation at Rose Gums Wildlife reserve starts at $304 per night. Relax in the heart of nature, surrounded by wilderness and natural beauty. If you want to book this enticing option or other popular choices in Australia, choose tophotels.com to book your stay. On the other hand, if you prefer a more luxurious stay, accommodation at Silk Oak Lodge starts at $358 per night. Lavish rooms, exceptional service and a serene environment make it a heavenly retreat. For those looking for city-based accommodation, there's a wide variety of Brisbane 4 star hotels to choose from. These hotels combine comfort and style, making them ideal for both corporate and leisure travelers. Additionally, if you're planning a visit to the beautiful Hope Island, there are plenty of choices for your stay. Here is a hotel that offers a comfortable and enjoyable experience, ensuring your visit to Hope Island becomes a memorable one.