Waking up in an unfamiliar place can be a thrilling and disorienting experience, especially when greeted by a breathtaking view of eagle-like birds soaring beneath you. On Galiano Island in Canada, where I had booked an open-fronted lookout on a high ridge, the "eagles" turned out to be turkey vultures gracefully riding the thermals in the valley below.
As I took in the surroundings, I discovered thickly wooded islands, intersected by slivers of the majestic Pacific Ocean. In the distance, Washington state's imposing Mount Olympus, still adorned with a snow-covered peak even during the summer months, stood tall. Adding to the enchantment, dragonflies darted around in close proximity until a pair of red-headed Anna's hummingbirds arrived, engaging in a lively squabble.
From the summit of Mount Galiano, a breathtaking panorama unfolds, with the ferry gracefully gliding into Sturdies Bay. This captivating scene is just one of the many reasons why Galiano Island should not be overlooked by travelers who are seeking tranquility and natural splendor, away from the bustling cities.
Located an hour away from Tsawwassen, near Vancouver, Galiano Island may be overshadowed by its larger neighbor, Salt Spring Island, but it offers its unique charm and peacefulness. Spanning 17 miles, the island may be only a mile wide for most of its length, but it is home to a friendly community of approximately a thousand inhabitants, including families of hippies and US draft dodgers who sought refuge here during the 1960s and 70s.
During my visit, I was warmly welcomed by the island's residents, with more than 30 people acquainting themselves with me by my name. One generous family even extended an invitation to stay at their home for as long as I desired. To my surprise and delight, I was also invited to participate in Galiano Island's annual soccer tournament, an event that embodies the tight-knit community spirit that permeates the island.
The wooden lookouts on Galiano Island were constructed last year by a local couple who wanted to offer visitors extraordinary views from their property. Positioned along the wooded clifftops of Ben’s Bluff, these unique three-sided structures resemble elevated bus shelters and feature a convenient screen to ward off mosquitoes. In addition to a shelf and two plastic chairs, each lookout is thoughtfully equipped with a pair of binoculars for guests to enjoy the stunning scenery.
These picturesque lookouts allow travelers to immerse themselves in the natural beauty of Galiano Island while providing a comfortable and serene oasis amidst the wilderness. With their strategically placed screens and lack of mosquitos, guests can relish uninterrupted panoramic views and a peaceful environment. Whether you're spotting wildlife or simply taking in the breathtaking landscapes, the wooden lookouts on Galiano Island offer a perfect blend of seclusion and beauty.
After a day spent exploring the natural splendor of Galiano Island, some visitors might find themselves longing for a different kind of scenery or perhaps a more urban experience. For those wishing to extend their travels, a wide variety of apartments in Vancouver at britishcolumbiahotels.net offer the perfect change of pace. Combining comfort and the convenience of city life, these accommodations are an exquisite way to cap off the adventure in British Columbia.
Setting up my temporary abode, I rolled out my airbed, arranged my sleeping bag, lined up my water supplies, and positioned my stove (a safety precaution against forest fires negates the use of campfires). My new dwelling was now ready. The island's splendour is enhanced by the elegant black-tailed deer. Unique to the area, I had peace of mind knowing I was free from the threat of bears, cougars, moose, coyotes and any other potentially dangerous wildlife which are commonly present in larger parts of Canada. My sleep was undisturbed and peaceful with the exception of harmless nocturnal mice visitors. Despite clear skies, the nights never grew cold. I found solace in the arms of sleep until the dawn chorus announced the arrival of a new day.
Taking to the roads, I aimed to hitch my ride towards Dionisio Point, a charming provincial park residing at the island's northernmost point. My journey off to a shaky start as the day's first driver zealously steered clear. Consequently, with every thumb gesture, I was graciously offered a ride by the next forthcoming driver. My venture swiftly took me northwards, sharing delightful exchanges with Diane initially, followed by Keith then finally with the silver-locked Dan.
Dixe gets some shade in the makeshift shelter at Dionisio Point
“Dionisio, eh?” he said when I told him my destination.
“Well, if you give me a hand loading some gas onto my boat I’ll give you a ride there.”
Half an hour later, I was walking down the ramp of Dan’s landing craft on to the silver beach at Dionisio’s Coon Bay. The foreshore was strewn with blanched tree trunks – escapees from logging operations around the coast – some of which had been fashioned into a Crusoe-like shelter. Once Dan sailed off I felt Crusoe-like myself in this eastern Pacific version of paradise. I was not completely alone, however, for soon a river otter and her offspring came close by to conduct a lesson on fur maintenance (see video below). This rather made up for the fact that I’d missed the pod of orcas who had been playing off the coast here the afternoon before.
During another scorching day, I made my way to the nearby Montague Harbour, not so much for the easy walk but more to savour fascinating conversations along. A sea-kayaking trip was the highlight of the day conducted by guides Chessi and Skyllar. We were a cozy group, gently navigating through the serene Trincomali Channel and its interspersed mini islands, whilst being spectators to an enchanting wildlife show. It was as if ospreys, black oystercatchers, majestic blue herons and belted kingfishers were putting up a special performance for us, while harbour seals kept a diligent eye on our expedition. Chessi delightfully shared interesting tidbits during the journey, as Skyllar fished out bull kelp from the sea, urging me to take a taste. “Imagine a leaf but with added salt,” was her perfect analysis. Indubitably, a more wholesome meal awaited me soon.
Last year marked the end of Galiano's usual public transport, but the journey from Montague Harbour to the only pub on the island, The Hummingbird, remains lively. Thanks to Tommy, a former school bus driver reminiscent of a survivor from a soft rock band of the 80s, now providing free shuttles. Tommy, full of colorful stories about the island, upon boarding about 40 passengers, ensures everyone gets a turn on a percussion instrument. He encourages us to participate in the impromptu jam session to the tunes of Beatles classics blaring from the speakers, while he maintains the rhythm with a hi-hat installed above the windshield - a slice of Galiano-style music therapy.
During the evening, I found myself nestled among twinkling fairy lights on the Hummingbird's terrace. I relished a homemade vegetable pizza and conversed with staff members who had become familiar faces from previous nights. This quiet island, often overlooked, is full of charm and spirit, making each visit a unique experience.
"Hey, Dixe," Debbie, the owner of the pub, exclaimed, "all the food on this plate comes straight from our very own farm." With a sense of pride, she handed me a refreshing salad, harvested fresh from the fields.
Immersed in the unplugged atmosphere of Galiano Island, my days were blissfully filled with relaxation. Whether basking in the tranquility of my lookout point or lounging on one of the island's serene beaches, I found myself at peace. In addition to these tranquil moments, I had the opportunity to connect with the island's wildlife, particularly the deer, as I explored the numerous forest trails. The island's rich artistic community beckoned me to visit the diverse array of over 40 artists' studios, adding a touch of creativity to my experience. And of course, no visit to Galiano Island would be complete without perusing the shelves of the excellent bookshop or indulging in the culinary delights offered by the charming cafes and restaurants scattered throughout the southern half of the island."
The hum of a bus-turned-orchestra, filled to the brim with passengers, adds a spoonful of enchantment to the journey.
Ben's Bluff, bereft of light pollution, allows for magnificent views of the night sky. In my fortunate timing, I had the pleasure of falling asleep to the cosmological ballet of the Perseids meteor shower, watching shooting stars dart across the serene expanse of the universe.
Five more things to do around Vancouver
Experience Paddleboarding in Vancouver
If you crave to join the Canadian youth in their favourite water sport, stand-up paddleboarding is the answer. Rent your personal paddle board and embark on an adventure around Vancouver's intricate waterways until the sun dips in the horizon.
Priced at £17 for a duration of two hours, ecomarine.com
Sip artisan beer from three of Vancouver's hip craft breweries while embarking on a 3½-hour guided cycling tour. Culminate your journey by honing your gastronomic acumen at the upscale Belgard Kitchen with a crash course in beer and food pairing.
An exclusive experience for £55, cyclevancouver.com
Visit the Olympic Experience Museum in Richmond where the thrilling 2010 Winter Olympics of Vancouver are honoured. The museum boasts state-of-the-art sports simulators, interactive media exhibits, and captivating displays that offer a glimpse into the athletic demands of an Olympian.
Tickets for adults are £10, 13-18 years old £7.60, and 6-12 years old £6.50, therox.ca
If you're in Whistler, do not miss out on the vast Audain Art Museum, a sanctuary for significant art pieces and crafts, tracing back centuries, from the north-western coast of Canada. Moreover, adults only have to pay £11 for admission, while it's free for those aged 16 and under, you can visit this place by yourself at audainartmuseum.com. Travelling back and forth from Vancouver to Whistler, would merely cost C$35 on a bus. Arrange your journey at epicrides.ca.
A mere 20-minute ferry journey away from West Vancouver brings you to the quaint Bowen Island. Don't be deceived by the island's solitary village, because it offers a gastronomic journey that meanders from French delicacies to Japanese cuisine, and all the way to desserts from a chocolatier and organic pies handmade on-site. Spoil your taste buds by joining the Food Tour, guided by a local, it covers seven culinary spots and offers a dozen unique tastings.