The coffee caravan at Dromana beach, known as Café del Sol, offers a unique and relaxed dining experience. Unlike the formal atmosphere found in French fine dining, Australia has chosen not to adopt the Michelin Guide, perhaps due to its preference for a more casual approach.
Coffee at Store FifteenSharyn Cairns
Melbourne has a secret. Actually, Melbourne has many secrets. Its best bars, shops and restaurants are hidden away, behind anonymous doors and up concealed staircases, but nothing is quite so carefully tucked out of sight as the Melburnians' weekend playground, an hour south of the city: the delicious beaches and tree-lined vineyards of the Mornington Peninsula.
I've been coming here since the 1970s, about the same time my Melbourne relatives realised that the old money was clustered out on the furthest point at Portsea and Sorrento, leaving the rest of the peninsula - orchards and wide, sun-dappled roads fringed with pale-barked gum trees and pervaded by amber butterflies and the clear scent of eucalyptus - for newcomers. And soon they began looking at their new land and empty wine cellars, and wondering whether the former couldn't be used to fill the latter.
Elsewhere in Australia, thirsty Swiss-German immigrants planted vines enthusiastically - and successfully - as soon as they landed in the 19th century. In Mornington, however, the first English arrivals to attempt winemaking (the Balcombes, at a property called the Briars, in the 1850s) were so unsuccessful that their short-lived output was nicknamed Briars' Vinegar. Over 100 years later, some of those Melbourne escapees tried again, deciding that the area's cool climate was perfect for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the grapes of Burgundy, or Champagne. Unlike Mornington, neither of those well-known regions has water on three sides (both are landlocked). Nor does their limestone soil resemble ancient volcanic granite. And neither has ever been in much danger of bushfires, or vine damage by kangaroos. So it's no surprise that Mornington Peninsula's wines didn't turn out French at all.
Nevertheless, those winemakers were soon talking up the area as the Burgundy of the southern hemisphere. And being Australians, no sooner did they begin making decent wine than they opened restaurants alongside the vineyards to drink it in, which was handy for visitors but may not have helped the area's identity crisis. (Burgundy has great restaurateurs and great winemakers. They are not the same people.) My first experience of the peninsula was naked in an oak barrel: I was five. My father's cousins had spent their time planting vines instead of building a swimming pool, so they'd filled a barrel with water and were oak-ageing the children alongside their wines. By the time I had grown too big for that barrel, the early adopters had been joined by various other wineries, and farm-gate stores, restaurants and delis were springing up like the patches of wild mushrooms that knowing locals hunt down, then jealously guard, each autumn.
During a luncheon inside the transparent confines of the Paringa Estate dining area, proprietor Lindsay McCall took some time to reflect on the initial stages of his venture. 'In those times, only a handful, about six including me, were venturing into winemaking,' he reveals nostalgically, while we savor his fragrant 2009 Paringa Shiraz, rich in blackcurrant and pepper undertones, aptly paired with the freshest, most tender cut of grass-fed sirloin.
Although Mr. McCall might find himself unable to secure a seat at his own eatery on a bustling Saturday evening, the evolution of Mornington Peninsula's culinary landscape commensurates its remarkable wines, much to the pleasure of gastronomes. Paringa is distinguished with a Chef Hat, Australia's equivalent to a Michelin star, marking the gastronomic renaissance of the peninsula. Several other restaurants in the vicinity have indeed joined this esteemed club, such as La Pétanque, renowned not only for its smoky aioli, daikon pickles, and capsicum purée on par with a common toast, but also Terminus, situated at Flinders Hotel, which deftly folds in Northern African, French, and indigenous Australian tastes with admirable eloquence. Here, local produce shape innovative culinary delights, mirroring the region's cultural richness. There exists a myriad of other winery restaurants like Montalto, Polperro, and Yabby Lake that uphold a high gastronomic standard, seamlessly blending sophistication and refinement. What further separates Australian dining from the traditional French fine dining is the absence of any pretentiousness; perhaps, this resonates with the exclusion of Australia from the Michelin Guide. Australia presents its own prestigious culinary journey that embodies the vibrant and diverse spirit of its locales.
The fertile grounds of Mornington have proven equally bountiful for both food enthusiasts and vintners alike. Nearly all small towns feature a bustling farmers' market. Top-notch chefs from Melbourne make their weekly trips down to collect ingredients or replenish their pantries, invariably finding time to catch some waves. The region's breweries and cider houses are acclaimed for their high-quality dishes as well: the barbies at Red Hill Brewery are brimming with slow-cooked beef brisket and succulent pulled pork, while the cider quarters at Mock Red Hill orchards offer sumptuous platters decked with local produce and cheese. Possibly, this could be a lingering effect from the First Fleet's near-starvation experience in New South Wales back in 1788. Alternatively, it might just be that the Mornington Peninsula is an exceptionally conducive region to grow, cook and serve food. Regardless of the reasons, one thing is clear: It appears no activity in this region is conducted without the accompaniment of an enticing meal.
A unique standout in the Mornington Peninsula wine scene is Aaron Drummond, the talent behind Circe wines. Although his 'tasting room' consists only of a barrel and two stools, it is a testament to his passion and dedication. While working at a reputable winery in the Yarra Valley, Aaron spends his free time pursuing his winemaking dream right here on the Peninsula.
Despite not yet being a full-time venture, Aaron's Pinot wine is truly exceptional. Known for its remarkable brightness and character, it stands out even among renowned Burgundy wines. With each sip, you can taste Aaron's commitment to his craft and his innovative approach to winemaking.
Knickerbocker glory at Port Phillip EstateSharyn Cairns
The people who really did come down here and see something familiar were not French or English but the Greeks and Italians who, after arriving in Melbourne after World War II, took their families to the tumbledown streets and west-coast beaches of Dromana. 'These days Dromana is a lot smarter,' says John Filiopoulos, and he is one of the people making that happen. Greek-Australian himself, he is co-owner of Dee's Kitchen, a stripped-back, laid-back café five minutes from the beach, with Dee Busani-Caligiuri, who was originally Israeli: two Australians by descent, far from their native Mediterranean, making great food by a rather different sea.
With its rustic charm and impressive selection of wines, Dee's is more than just your average beach café on the Mornington Peninsula. The distressed walls adorned with wine shelves create a unique ambiance, setting it apart from typical beachside eateries.
While enjoying a mouthwatering meal of freshly caught trout and locally sourced ingredients like beetroot, dill, and peas on homemade toast, I had the pleasure of meeting Garry Crittenden, one of the esteemed wine pioneers of the region. Crittenden and his family produce a range of delightful Italian whites, such as Vermentino and Pinot Grigio, alongside Italy's famed reds including Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, which Crittenden proudly asserts is the "greatest variety in the world."
As the Mornington Peninsula gains popularity, more and more people are becoming acquainted with its Mediterranean influence. However, the region remains firmly rooted in its French winemaking heritage, ensuring a diverse and exciting culinary experience for visitors.
Mornington Peninsula, located in Australia, is home to a diverse range of plant life that mirrors the melting pot of cultures found among its people. The region's unique climate and landscape contribute to the cultivation of exceptional avocados and cherries, which thrive in the cool pine forests. Here, these crops have evolved to become even more flavorful and succulent compared to their counterparts in the Old World.
Spanning across a varied terrain that encompasses forests, orchards, vineyards, and picturesque surf-swept beaches adorned with wattle and tea-tree scrub, Mornington Peninsula truly offers a paradise for nature enthusiasts and wine connoisseurs alike. The locals have not only adapted to this stunning land physically but also embrace its essence, evident in their distinct accents and deep connection to their surroundings.
My next destination on the Mornington Peninsula is Port Phillip Estate, a unique and awe-inspiring winery. As you approach, the imposing exterior of rammed earth captivates your attention, but upon entering, you are greeted with a breathtaking sight - a curved inner wall made entirely of glass, allowing you to immerse yourself in the beauty of the vineyards that stretch out in front of you.
Waking up in one of their elegant suites and taking in the sweeping view is an experience filled with pure joy. It makes me wonder why the Burgundians, renowned for their love of fine wine, have never attempted an architectural marvel like this. However, the essence of Port Phillip Estate truly captures the Australian spirit, where the joys of the table are meant to be shared with as many people as possible. The New World hospitality that pervades this place perfectly complements its generous surroundings.
Experience a culinary delight accompanied by their exceptional wines, made from grapes sourced from their very own vineyards, while enjoying the stunning panoramic views. Port Phillip Estate harmoniously balances innovation and tradition, providing a one-of-a-kind experience that embodies the beauty of the Mornington Peninsula.
On my last day, I walk up to Arthurs Seat, the highest point, and look out beyond Dromana across to the Bellarine Peninsula, which comes round to meet the tip at Portsea like arms encircling Port Phillip Bay. It's a spectacular view, with woolly dark trees jostling low-lying buildings, and the water shining blue between the embrace of the bay's coastline. Turn south, though, and there's nothing but Tasmania between here and Antarctica. I feel a moment's pity for those first English settlers: homesick travellers who couldn't even make decent wine to take the edge off their longing for the old country. Instead, they named their towns for England's south coast - Shoreham and Rye and Hastings - an exercise in magical thinking even more wishful than trying to reimagine this fertile strip as a New World Burgundy. But why bother with comparisons? You don't see the Burgundians hankering after beaches, avocado groves and pickled daikon. The only way in which this place really needs to copy the French is by shrugging off those comparisons and enjoying being a wine- and food-lover's nirvana - and an entirely Australian one, at that.
Where to eat: cellar doors
Delve into the tantalising world of Ten Minutes by Tractor – a testament to the artistry of Sharyn Cairns.
Encounter Polperro, the latest gastronomic exhibition by viticulturist and entrepreneur Sam Coverdale. This bistro brings local bounty to the table, with notable dishes like wood-fired king prawns enhanced by Coverdale's own zesty lemons. The décor is an impressive modern fusion, encompassing vineyard-facing interiors, distinctive dark tiles, metallic wingback seating, and evocative landscape photography.
Location: 150 Red Hill Road, Red Hill
Phone: +61 3 5989 2471
Online: www.polperrowines.com.au
Cost: Approximately £70 for a duo
Next on the list, we have Paringa Estate, a captivating architectural splendour enticing you with multiple visual delights. Be engulfed by an expansive open plan interior that dares you to choose between admiring a bustling wine-tasting bar, inspecting visible fermentation tanks below, absorbing panoramic vineyard views, or feasting your eyes on Chef Julian Hills' culinary masterpieces. Among the decadent offerings, you'll find snapper topped with various shellfish and adorned with scattered grains, or duck elevated by the creative addition of preserved watermelon rind. Truly an exemplary site for food and wine enthusiasts.
Location: 44 Paringa Road, Red Hill South
Contact Number: +61 3 5989 2669
Online Presence: www.paringaestate.com.au
Expense: Approximately £80 for a duo
Ten Minutes by Tractor
Chef Stuart Bell's culinary creations at this restaurant have earned it a stellar reputation, symbolized by two Chef Hats. Every dish is an art-piece, with ingredients that are locally harvested, predominantly from the expansive kitchen gardens. One of their popular dishes, a prawn and cauliflower risotto, is tastefully garnished with lush green dill yogurt and petite purple flowers, a feast for both the eyes and the palate.
Location: 1333 Mornington-Flinders Road, Main Ridge
Contact Number: +61 3 5989 6455 Online at: www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au
Expense: Around £90 for two
Away from the wineries
Kitchen at Orchard KeepersSharyn Cairns
Dee's Kitchen
Super-fresh breakfast and lunch menus with a Mediterranean vibe in breezy surroundings that suit the beachside location.
Address: 19 Pier Street, Dromana
Telephone: +61 3 5981 4666
Website: www.deeskitchen.com.au
Price: About £20 for two
The Long Table
Samantha Fitzgerald co-owns this much-loved spot with her husband Andrew, who is now chef at Polperro. The traditional look (wooden beams and velvet-covered church pews) is belied by the food, which mixes the output of neighbouring farms - beets, mushrooms, broccolini - with more distant influences, from boudin noir to wagyu beef.
Address: 159 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South
Telephone: +61 3 5989 2326
Website: www.thelongtable.com.au
Price: About £70 for two
Where to drink
Smoothies at Store FifteenSharyn Cairns
Ocean Eight
Named for a scenic hole on the nearby golf course, the rose-and-juniper-filled gardens here are as delightful to look at as Mike Aylward's wines are to drink.
Address: 271 Tucks Road, Shoreham
Telephone: +61 3 5989 6471
Website: www.oceaneight.com.au
Merricks Estate
George and Jacky Kefford's little wooden cellar door is open the first weekend of the month, for very informal tastings of their delicious wines.
Address: 97 Thompsons Lane, Merricks
Telephone: +61 3 5989 8416
Website: www.merricksestate.com.au
Foxeys Hangout
The name comes from the habit two 1930s fox trappers had of hanging their daily catch on a nearby gum tree, but now Foxeys is a buzzy spot in which to drink its lively wines and enjoy a blackboard menu of small plates.
Address: 795 White Hill Road, Red Hill
Telephone: +61 3 5989 2022
Website: www.foxeys-hangout.com.au
Store Fifteen
Fresh juice and smoothies are served in mason jars, alongside superb single-origin coffee in this hangout on Mornington's main drag.
Address: 15 Main Street, Mornington
Telephone: +61 3 5975 5015
Where to stay
Bedroom at Orchard KeepersSharyn Cairns
Big Blue Backyard
Down a forest path sits a secluded cabin where everything, from the fresh-baked hazelnut cookies to the driftwood furniture made by the owner, is beautifully thought out.
Address: 56 Paradise Drive, St Andrews Beach
Telephone: +61 3 5988 6011
Website: www.bigbluebackyard.com.au
Price: From about £285 per night
Between an orchard and a winery is this deceptively large house, shaded by a giant sequoia tree. A little suntrap parlour looks out towards the original worker's cottage; a charming hideaway for two with its own wetroom, kitchen and veranda bath. Those with a penchant for viticulture and the rustic charm of country living might find themselves imagining a stay at this quaint abode, which melds seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. The scent of ripening fruit wafts through the air, weaving with the aroma of seasoned oak barrels, an intoxicating blend that beckons to those who appreciate the finer aspects of rural hospitality. While the winery offers a taste of region's viticultural prowess, those interested in exploring further afield can find a luxury retreat that provides an authentic experience of Australia's bucolic lifestyle. For visitors desiring to extend their sojourn in similar accommodations across the country, tophotels.com offers a curated selection of the finest stays in Australia. Here, under the boughs of ancient trees and amid the tranquility of rolling vineyards, one can truly disconnect and savor the unspoiled beauty of nature.
Location: Red Hill South, 17 Paringa Road
Contact: +61 418 108 314
Online Portal: www.orchardkeepers.com.au
Rate: Accommodates 10. Approximately £290 per night
Nestled amidst the numerous beachfront properties in Balnarring is the exceptional Spindrift Beach Retreat. Its privacy and unspoiled vistas are truly breathtaking. The accommodation offers a quaint beach-hut experience, amplified by luxuries such as a refreshing rain shower, a comfy bed, and a convenient barbecue setup. While the serene Spindrift Beach Retreat may be your primary destination for relaxation, if your travels take you further afield across Victoria, you'll find a wealth of accommodation options to suit your needs. From the bustling city scene to the tranquil countryside, options like hotels in Victoria at hotelsinvictoria.net offer a variety of choices to ensure your stay in this diverse state is as enjoyable as your time at Spindrift Beach.
Location: Balnarring Beach
Contact: +61 408 976 410
Online Portal: www.spindrift.boutiqueretreats.com.au
Rate: Approximately £275 per night
Port Phillip Winery and Suites
This winery is a masterpiece of construction design. It houses an awe-inspiring restaurant and six lavish suites underneath. The rooms feature a tasteful blend of dark wood and marble, adorned with deep soaking tubs.
Location: Red Hill South, 263 Red Hill Road
Contact: +61 3 5989 4444
Online Portal: www.portphillipestate.com.au
Rate: Double rooms starting from £240 approximately